Laura and I were walking out of Redondela to Pontevedra; yes, another beautiful day for walking, somewhat overcast so as to not be hot, with rumours of rain possible.
We stopped at a café several hours down the road - a complete jumble-up with more people stuffed in wanting an espresso and bun and to get on again before the rain. As is so often he case with these mom/pop cafes, completely overwhelmed by the crowd and wholly understaffed, making the waiting just that much more tenuous, as one was never really quite certain the order might be relayed and returned, nor never quite knowing how much grace of time one should extend before either repeating or leaving.
We found a table in the corner, thought we had ordered and were calmly waiting for something to happen when the table next to us was taken up by a couple who in their patience undertook to start a conversation with us. They are from Lithuania, undertaking the pilgrimage in desire of receiving some direction on their next stage of life, following their children being set off and pursuing their own lives in various places. A delightful couple, Gunther and Viva, wholly humble and gentle-spirited, and taking their pleasure in each moment as it unfolded.
We saw them several times as we leap-frogged according to our paces. I noticed that Gunther (?) and one of their friends from Lithuania would stop at almost every icon along the way , statues, markers, chapels or churches, to take a moment to pray. I even noticed Gunther following this practice in Santiago in one of the heavier-trafficked tapas streets, inserting himself in the midst of several others oblivious in conversation.
This person was a real pilgrim, with a serious question articulated, and intent with expectation of receiving some direction from God, unlike most of the other travellers who were taking advantage of a well-supported route of travel, reasonably marked routes, enjoyment of the camaraderie which develops as one continues to mark the days with others' paces, and find yourself crossing paths.
I have great respect for those of us who undertake such an exercise with commitment and intention; mine however being much less clear.
It did however raise a question as to what this camino endeavor means and consists of. The camino is a process of putting one foot in front of the other at whatever pace you determine, and continue doing so until a specific goal / place is reached. The camino consists of a starting point and time, a passage of time in which questions of life are substantially reduced to cover health, food, shelter, weather, until one reaches the line in the sand, the goal.
Well, by gosh. This is really no less or more than what each of us does each day of our lives as we try to move consistently toward whatever the goal is - get a project done, meet deadlines, work on/build/strengthen relationships with friends, spouse, family. The blisters from walking are not much different from the resulting frictions that arise from living with others; both need to be tended to to ensure the problem reduces rather than increases in severity. The delight of sharing a meal at the end of the day with others you have spent the day walking and talking with, is not different from sharing the accomplishment of the day's goals with family, friends. The need for assistance from our travelling companions to help with blisters, advice etc, is no different from needing to ask for help with the problem immediately faced at home...
And then we get to do it all over again tomorrow! how hugely blessed we are to have those travelling with us to be a part of each of our lives, and we theirs.
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