Sept. 5 Rubiaes to Valenca

The morning starts with a bit of confusion about breakfast.  We knew it would be about 3 euros but also thought it would be downstairs in the albergue.  A phone call confirms it is at the restaurant and there is no transfer like last night.  Off I go ahead of the other two because I know they will catch up fast!

It is lovely to be out in the cool of the morning and into the trees.  Saturday morning sounds fill the air; birds, gardening machines, the little creek and the "boom" "boom" of what we're not sure!  The first meeting of the day is with a somewhat wildeyed pilgrim going the wrong way - ah, he is off to Fatima! 

The café at the bend in the road, Bom Retiro, is open and welcoming.  The rather chubby dog is looking longingly at our breakfast and it is Laura who gives in with a piece of bread from Dave's sandwich!  As we're starting to leave, one of the young daughters with very good English comes to say my Mother says you need a ride and my Father can take you.  He is going to San Pedro up the road but will leave me at an entrance to the Caminho.  How perfect!

More booms as we're riding so, I ask about them.  The younger daughter who has come along, says people make parties on the weekend.  Whatever local fiesta or family gathering is accompanied by firecrackers!  These are louder than any firecrackers I've heard!

I am dropped off at exactly the right spot and my offer of money is refused.  Blessings to you! 

So far this morning the leg is under control after much prayer and lots of Portuguese/Spanish ibruprofen which is quite magical compared to our usual!  The uneven cobblestones are a challenge to walk on but, as I pass some beautiful homes including one with a Porsche SUV coming out of the driveway, I realize I've been a little slow on the uptake!  This is not just the Caminho, this is the equivalent of Brown CRES, the local street.  A tone down of the complaining is in order and some consideration of the fact some of these bricks were laid in Roman times!

Up ahead stand a group and sure enough, here is young Kylie, the New Zealander we met in Porto!  With her is Pieter and Annamarie who is heavily bandaged over her nose and chin.  Her boot lace came undone and she stepped on it pitching forward face first!  Just part of the game is her positive pronouncement!  The group is headed for the Albergue just ahead but I am headed for the ponte thinking I will come back to wait for D and L.  The steep rocky descent changes that decision quickly!  On to the roundabout at Tuido.  Here there is a very nice restaurant where I pass the time waiting for D and L.  The place fills up quickly.  Apparently, Saturday lunch is a family affair with members of all ages and wine and beer flowing!  Even a chorus of dogs in the background which is silenced with three sharp whistles!

I decide to head out on the last bit into Valenca but in true Caminho fashion, as I sit on a ledge somewhere for a rest, I catch a glimpse of Laura in the window of the car parked across the street and here they are coming around the corner!  The last bit into any town or city always seems to take forever but at last we are together in the lobby.  Dave and I headed over to the closest Pharmacia later to find even more bandages and the equivalent of Epsom salts for Laura's tired feet.

The restaurant we were directed to was just by the Pharmacia only a little walk from the hotel.  Again, there are platters of food and we realize at this late juncture, we have been greedy in our ordering!  They are perfectly willing to bring a platter for one person which can be shared by two or more.  Our North American sensibilities are showing - how often are we looked at askance or just told no to the possibility of sharing one order!?

Before dinner, Dave and I had a few moments over a small jug of Sangria and a few musings about Graham.  He would have loved the food - meat, potatoes and rice!  He loved rice!  The boys even had a rice cooker at the house.  I think he also would have been at home in his own skin.  His dark complexion would fit right in here.  But we also wonder about the structure of the days on a Caminho.  The routine might have been good but it might also have been a real challenge to his ADD tendencies!

I end with a careful comment about weather.  Today was absolutely brilliant!  A cloudless day until the last second of sun.  I say careful so as not to have our friends, Dave and his daughter Leanne who were here in May, groaning.  The rain did not make things easy for them!

The last time to say Bom Caminho!